For ice climbers and alpinists, a reliable ice screw is non-negotiable. It’s the critical link between you and the frozen medium, demanding a blend of lightweight design, rapid placement, and absolute strength. The right screw can make the difference between a confident lead and a harrowing experience, turning precarious vertical ice into a secure ascent.
Modern ice screws have evolved into sophisticated pieces of gear, featuring specialized alloys, innovative hanger designs, and efficient cranking systems. This roundup examines eight top-tier models from leading brands, highlighting the key features that make each one a contender for your rack. Whether you prioritize ultimate lightness, bomber steel construction, or quick-clipping convenience, there’s an optimal tool here for your next winter objective.
The Top Ice Screws for Secure Protection
- Black Diamond Equipment Ultralight Ice Screw 19 cm
- Blue Ice Aero Ice Screw – Green 22cm
- Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screw 13Cm
- Grivel 360 Ice Screws 16cm
- Grivel 360 Helix Ice Screw 22cm
- Black Diamond Ultralight Express Ice Screw 19cm
- Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw 17cm
- Camp USA Blade Runner Ice Screw 21cm
Black Diamond Equipment Ultralight Ice Screw 19 cm
This screw is engineered for climbers who count every gram. Its aluminum body paired with a hardened steel tip offers an excellent strength-to-weight ratio, making it a favorite for long alpine routes or big racks. The weight savings are significant without compromising the cutting power needed to start the hole.
The forged aluminum hanger includes two large, opposing clip-in points, allowing for fast and easy carabiner attachment from any direction. Combined with the integrated wire-gate Express handle, which stows neatly against the screw, this design facilitates smooth and rapid placements even with cold, gloved hands.
Blue Ice Aero Ice Screw – Green 22cm
Blue Ice brings smart organization and user-friendly features to the forefront with the Aero Ice Screw. The color-coded system, where the knob and hanger correspond to the screw length, lets you identify the right piece of gear instantly in a stressful situation. The included teeth protective cap is a simple yet valuable addition for protecting both your gear and your pack.
Its foldable stainless steel wire crank is robust and easy to deploy. The highly textured crank knob provides a secure, non-slip grip for efficient screwing, even in wet conditions. This model balances thoughtful design with reliable performance for consistent placements.
Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screw 13Cm
As an ultra-lightweight option from a trusted brand, the Petzl Laser Speed Light is built for technical ice where minimal weight is crucial. Its compact 13cm length is ideal for thinner ice or as a shorter screw on a mixed rack. The integrated crank design contributes to its streamlined profile and reduced weight.
Constructed from steel and aluminum, it meets the rigorous CE EN 568 and UIAA 151 certifications, ensuring it meets international safety standards for ice climbing anchors. This combination of certified reliability, lightweight construction, and Petzl’s engineering makes it a precise tool for demanding climbs.
Grivel 360 Ice Screws 16cm
Grivel’s 360 Ice Screws represent a classic and proven design in the ice climbing world. Made from durable steel, they are built to withstand repeated use and the abrasive nature of glacial ice. Their robust construction inspires confidence for both lead climbing and constructing anchors.
Certified for ice climbing and mountaineering under the CE EN 568 standard, these screws are a reliable workhorse. The 16cm length is a versatile middle-ground, suitable for a wide range of ice conditions, making it an essential core piece for any ice climber’s collection.
Grivel 360 Helix Ice Screw 22cm
The Grivel 360 Helix takes the trusted 360 platform and incorporates a helical flute design. This geometry helps efficiently clear ice chips from the hole during placement, reducing binding and allowing for faster, smoother screwing. This is particularly advantageous in softer or wetter ice conditions.
With a longer 22cm length, this screw is designed for thicker ice formations where maximum penetration and holding power are required. It maintains Grivel’s reputation for solid steel construction, offering a dependable option for longer screws in your protection arsenal.
Black Diamond Ultralight Express Ice Screw 19cm
This model builds on Black Diamond’s ultralight philosophy with the added convenience of the Express handle system. The handle’s wire-gate mechanism allows it to flip out quickly for cranking and then snap securely back against the screw body for compact storage, minimizing snagging.
The combination of an aluminum body and steel tip provides reliable performance while keeping weight down. The 19cm length offers a great balance, providing solid penetration for secure placements in most ice climbing scenarios without excessive weight.
Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw 17cm
Petzl’s Laser Sonic series is recognized for its focus on fast, easy placement. The design often incorporates features aimed at reducing the effort and time needed to screw into ice, which can be a major benefit during strenuous leads or in very cold conditions.
The 17cm length is another highly versatile size, fitting between shorter stubbies and longer screws. It leverages Petzl’s advanced manufacturing and materials technology to create a screw that is both strong and engineered for performance, helping climbers place protection efficiently.
Camp USA Blade Runner Ice Screw 21cm
Camp USA brings its technical expertise to the ice screw market with the Blade Runner. This 21cm screw is designed for deep, secure placements in thick ice. Its construction is focused on providing a sharp, aggressive bite and reliable holding power.
As a key piece from a major gear manufacturer, it incorporates design elements aimed at smooth handling and durability. The longer length makes it a strategic choice for building bomber anchors or for use in areas where the ice is particularly thick and sustained.
Buying Guide: How to Choose the Best Ice Screws for Secure Placement
Picking the right ice screws isn’t just about grabbing the shiniest ones off the shelf. It’s about matching your gear to the conditions and your own climbing style to ensure every placement feels solid. I’ve learned that a few key factors make all the difference between a screw that goes in smoothly and one that fights you the whole way.
First, let’s talk material and coating. Most modern screws are made from chromoly steel, which is the standard for strength. The real magic is in the coating. A good low-friction coating, like Black Diamond’s Nitro treatment or Petzl’s Ice Coat, is a game-changer. It reduces binding as you screw in, which means less effort and heat generation. Less heat means less melting and a stronger hold in the ice. I always look for this feature; it makes placements faster and more reliable when you’re pumped.
Next, consider the tooth design and hanger. Screws come with either vertical or horizontal teeth. Horizontal teeth are the classic design and are great for all-around use. Vertical teeth, often found on “turbo” style screws, are fantastic for brittle or aerated ice as they fracture the ice less and can start easier. The hanger should be easy to manipulate with a gloved hand and should have a large, clear hole for clipping. Some, like those from Grivel or DMM, have color-coded hangers, which is a nice touch for quickly identifying lengths on your rack.
Length is a crucial variable. I carry a mix. Short screws (10-13cm) are perfect for bulletproof ice and for saving weight. Longer screws (17-22cm) are your best friends for softer, more questionable ice, as they reach deeper into more solid layers. For the best ice screws for secure placement, having a range allows you to adapt to the pitch. Finally, don’t forget the crank. A good T-handle or levering crank should feel like an extension of your arm. Test how it stores on the screw and how it feels when applying torque. A smooth, efficient placement system keeps you safe and conserves energy for the moves ahead.
FAQ
How many ice screws should I carry on a typical climb?
This depends heavily on the route’s length and protection spacing. For a single-pitch ice climb, I usually rack between 10 to 14 screws. This gives me enough for solid anchors and several pieces on lead. For longer, multi-pitch routes, you and your partner should coordinate to have a similar total number, often between 12-18 screws shared between you. Always research the specific route to get a better idea.
What’s the difference between a “tube” style and a “wire” style ice screw?
The core difference is the internal structure. A traditional tube-style screw is literally a hollow tube with teeth. A wire-style screw, like the Petzl Laser Speed or some Black Diamond models, has a central wire or rail running through it. The wire style is often lighter and clears ice chips more efficiently during placement. Many climbers, myself included, find wire styles place faster with less binding, which can be critical in stressful situations.
How do I know if my ice screw placement is good?
A good placement feels smooth and consistent as you screw it in. You shouldn’t hit major voids or hear a lot of cracking. When it’s fully seated, the hanger should be flush with the ice surface (not sticking out) and there should be no visible cracks radiating from it. Give it a gentle but firm tug with your hand; it should feel solid. Listen to the sound—a solid “thunk” when tapped is better than a hollow “ping.” Trusting your senses is key for secure placements.
How often should I retire my ice screws?
You need to inspect them regularly. Look for any visible damage: cracks (especially near the hanger), significant bending, or heavily worn/dulled teeth. The coating will wear off over time, which is normal, but it will make them harder to place. Any screw that has taken a serious fall or has been dropped onto rock from height should be retired. There’s no set timeframe, but a careful pre- and post-season inspection is a must for safety.
Can I use an ice screw anchor for top-roping?
You can, but you must be extremely cautious. A top-rope anchor sees constant, heavy, and often dynamic load. I would only consider it on very thick, solid ice with long, well-placed screws (think 17cm or longer). The absolute minimum is three screws in independent placements, equalized with a cordelette or sling. Often, using natural rock anchors or ice screw backups to existing bolts is a far safer strategy for a top-rope. When evaluating the best ice screws for secure placement, remember that even the best screw is only as good as the ice it’s in.