Choosing the right quickdraws is a critical decision for any lead climber. These essential pieces of gear are your direct link to protection, impacting everything from clipping ease and rope drag to overall safety and confidence on the route. With numerous brands and models available, selecting the best set for your climbing style and budget can be challenging.
This roundup examines nine top-rated quickdraw sets for lead climbing, highlighting key features like carabiner gate type, dogbone material, and specialized designs. Whether you’re a sport climber seeking lightweight speed, a trad climber needing durability, or someone building a first rack, understanding these options will help you make an informed choice for your next vertical adventure.
Our Top Picks for Lead Climbing Quickdraws
- Petzl DJINN AXESS Quickdraw for Crag Climbing, 12 cm, 6 Pack
- Climb X Gear Ultra Wire Quickdraw Carabiners (Pink)
- Mad Rock Concorde Express Quickdraw – 6 Pack
- BLACK DIAMOND FreewireQuickpack 12cm
- Camp Orbit Wire Express KS Quickdraw 6 Pack
- BLACK DIAMOND HotForge Hybrid Quickdraw Quickpack (6-Pack, 12cm)
- Mammut Crag Keylock Indicator 6-Pack Quickdraws – Silver/Ultramarine 10cm
- Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw – 2 Pack
- Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw – 6 Pack
Petzl DJINN AXESS Quickdraw for Crag Climbing, 12 cm, 6 Pack
The Petzl DJINN AXESS is a reliable and well-designed set for general crag climbing. It features a combination of DJINN carabiners, with a straight gate on the bolt end and a bent gate on the rope end to facilitate smooth and quick clipping. The H-shaped cross-section of the carabiners provides an excellent strength-to-weight ratio, making them both durable and easy to handle.
Constructed with a durable polyester webbing for the sling, these quickdraws are built to withstand frequent use. The wide contact surfaces on the carabiners promote better rope glide and contribute to reduced wear over time. With a major axis strength of 23 kN, they offer dependable performance for a wide range of sport climbing routes.
Climb X Gear Ultra Wire Quickdraw Carabiners
Climb X Gear’s Ultra Wire Quickdraws offer a solid combination of safety and value. The carabiners are hot-forged from 7075 aircraft-grade aluminum, a material known for its high strength and durability. Each unit is individually tested and CE certified, providing assurance of its reliability for lead climbing protection.
These draws feature an ultra-wire gate design, which helps minimize weight while maintaining a secure closure. They are paired with a high-strength Spectra sling, known for its low weight and high tensile strength. This set is a practical choice for climbers looking for certified performance without a premium price tag.
Mad Rock Concorde Express Quickdraw – 6 Pack
The Mad Rock Concorde Express pack provides robust strength in a straightforward quickdraw design. With a major axis rating of 27 kN, these carabiners exceed typical UIAA requirements, offering a strong sense of security. The minor and open gate strengths are also substantial, ensuring performance even in less-than-ideal loading scenarios.
This six-pack is ready to use straight out of the package, making it an efficient way to build a complete sport climbing rack. The design focuses on fundamental reliability, making it a suitable option for both new climbers and experienced leaders who prioritize proven, no-fuss gear.
BLACK DIAMOND Freewire Quickpack 12cm
Black Diamond’s Freewire Quickpack is a classic and widely trusted choice among climbers. This set is known for its simple, effective design featuring two wiregate carabiners. Wiregates are favored for being lightweight and less prone to icing up in cold conditions, making these draws versatile for various environments.
The 12cm polyester dogbone offers a standard length suitable for most sport climbing situations, helping to manage rope drag effectively. As a product from a leading brand in climbing hardware, the Freewire set represents a benchmark for dependable, all-around quickdraws that perform consistently.
Camp Orbit Wire Express KS Quickdraw 6 Pack
Camp positions the Orbit Wire Express as an ideal entry-level quickdraw for all-around climbing. The set is equipped with two updated Orbit Wire carabiners, which are designed to be easy to handle and clip. This makes them particularly user-friendly for climbers who are still developing their clipping technique and speed.
A thoughtful feature is the Karstop Evo carabiner retainer on the rope end of the polyester dogbone. This keeper helps maintain the carabiner in the optimal position for clipping, reducing fumbling when you need to make a quick placement. It’s a functional design that adds convenience without complexity.
BLACK DIAMOND HotForge Hybrid Quickdraw Quickpack
The Black Diamond HotForge Hybrid Quickdraw employs a smart design that combines the best features of different carabiner types. It uses a HotForge keylock carabiner on the bolt end to prevent snagging on bolts or rock, and a HotWire wiregate on the rope end to save weight and allow smooth rope movement.
This hybrid approach creates a balanced draw that is both efficient and strong. The 18mm polyester dogbone includes a Straitjacket insert, which holds the rope-end carabiner in the perfect orientation for clipping. This set is engineered for climbers who want optimized performance across sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing.
Mammut Crag Keylock Indicator 6-Pack Quickdraws
Mammut’s Crag Keylock Indicator quickdraws integrate useful safety and durability features. The keylock carabiner design eliminates the traditional hook-like nose, preventing it from catching on bolts, gear, or rope. A built-in protector helps keep the lower carabiner in position and reduces wear on the sling material.
A standout feature is the Indicator technology in the durable polyester sling. If the sling becomes damaged, a red fabric layer becomes visible, providing a clear visual warning. This proactive safety feature, combined with the overall value, makes these draws a smart choice for safety-conscious climbers.
Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw – 2 Pack
The Petzl Spirit Express quickdraws are known for their lightweight and compact design, often favored by climbers looking to minimize weight on their harness. While details are limited here, the Spirit line from Petzl typically features a curved spine and a wiregate design that facilitates easy and reliable clipping.
These draws are often selected for difficult routes where every gram matters, or as supplemental draws for extending protection. The two-pack format is also convenient for replacing older draws or adding specific lengths to an existing rack. Their reputation is built on a legacy of performance in high-end sport climbing.
Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw – 6 Pack
Edelrid’s Bulletproof Quickdraws live up to their name with a focus on extreme durability and strength. They are engineered to withstand heavy use and tough conditions, making them a reliable choice for frequent climbers, guides, or use in busy climbing areas. The construction prioritizes longevity and resilience.
These quickdraws likely incorporate robust materials and design elements to resist wear and tear on both the carabiners and the sling. Choosing a set with “bulletproof” in the name indicates a commitment to gear that can handle sustained use over many seasons, providing good long-term value for dedicated climbers.
How to Choose the Best Rock Climbing Quickdraws for Lead
Picking the right quickdraws for lead climbing isn’t just about grabbing the shiniest set off the wall. It’s about matching your gear to your climbing style, the rock you’re on, and your personal preferences. Having the wrong draws can make a day at the crag feel awkward, while the right ones become an invisible extension of your rack. Let’s break down what actually matters when you’re building your set.
First, consider gate action. This is huge for lead climbing. Most of us prefer a wire-gate carabiner on the rope-end. They’re lighter, less prone to gate flutter (that scary vibration when clipping), and they don’t freeze shut as easily in cold weather. For the bolt-end, a solid-gate carabiner is often preferred for its durability against abrasion and its easier handling when the draw is already clipped. Many of the best rock climbing quickdraws for lead use this hybrid wire/solid setup. Speaking of the bolt-end, look for a carabiner with a keylock or notchless nose. This prevents the annoying snagging on bolts, hangers, and even your rope that can happen with a traditional hook nose.
Next up is dogbone length and material. The sling that connects the two carabiners comes in different lengths, typically between 10cm and 17cm. Shorter draws are lighter and create less drag on straight-up routes. Longer draws are essential for wandering routes or to help reduce rope drag by allowing the draw to sit straighter from the bolt. Material-wise, most dogbones are made from dyneema or nylon. Dyneema is super strong and low-stretch, which is great for reducing rope drag. Nylon has more stretch, which can sometimes make for a slightly softer catch, a feature some climbers appreciate on hard sport routes.
Finally, think about weight and bulk. If you’re chasing a long multi-pitch or your project is at your physical limit, every gram counts. Ultralight draws are a dream on overhanging terrain. But remember, superlight often means a trade-off in durability or a higher price tag. For cragging or all-around use, a slightly burlier, more affordable draw is usually the smarter choice. Your hands will also thank you for paying attention to the carabiner’s spine shape and gate opening. A comfortable, rounded spine and a wide, easy-to-open gate make clipping less of a fight, especially when you’re pumped. Test a few in your hand before you commit to a full set.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many quickdraws do I need for lead climbing?
For most single-pitch sport climbs, a set of 12 quickdraws is the standard starting point. This covers you for the vast majority of routes you’ll encounter. If you start getting into longer routes or multi-pitch climbing, having 18 to 24 draws is common. It’s always better to have a couple extra in your pack than to run out mid-route. Remember, you might also want a couple of longer draws or alpine draws for reducing rope drag on wandering lines.
What’s the difference between a sport draw and an alpine draw?
A sport quickdraw is a fixed-length sling (the dogbone) with two carabiners pre-attached. They’re designed for fast, one-handed clipping. An alpine draw (or extendable draw) is typically a 60cm or 120cm dyneema sling with two carabiners that you can loop to adjust the length. Alpine draws are versatile for trad climbing, allowing you to extend gear to prevent rope drag, but they are slower to deploy than a pre-assembled sport draw.
Should I get all wire-gate or mixed gate quickdraws?
For lead climbing, a mixed setup is overwhelmingly popular and for good reason. Using a wire-gate on the rope end reduces weight and gate flutter. Using a solid gate on the bolt end provides a more durable carabiner that’s easier to clip to the bolt, especially if the draw is already hanging from it. When researching the 9 best rock climbing quickdraws for lead, you’ll notice most top picks follow this hybrid design.
How often should I retire my quickdraws?
There’s no strict expiration date, but you need to inspect them regularly. Look for significant wear on the dogbone, especially where it contacts the carabiner. Check carabiners for deep grooves, sharp edges, or any gate malfunction. If a carabiner has taken a major fall directly onto it (creating a notch), retire it immediately. For frequent climbers, a set might last 3-5 years of regular use, but always let visual inspection, not a calendar, be your guide.
Is there a benefit to curved-gate carabiners?
Curved-gate carabiners, often found on the rope-end, are designed to make clipping the rope feel smoother and more intuitive. The curve can help guide the rope into the gate. Some climbers love them and swear they clip faster, especially when pumped. Others find them unnecessary or even slightly trickier to unclip from the bolt. It’s a personal preference thing, so try a friend’s or a demo draw if you can before buying a whole set.